Encyclopedia of Pasta by Vita Oretta Zanini De

Author:Vita Oretta Zanini De
Language: eng
Format: mobi, pdf
Published: 0101-01-01T00:00:00+00:00

The artisans of Secinaro and

Pretoro, in the provinces of

L'Aquila

and

Chieti, were

specialists in making this utensil. Its

ancestor is lu rentrocelo, which was

o n c e used around Pescara and

L'Aquila.

Today, maccheroni alla chitarra,

also

called

tonnarelli,

are

universally

associated with

Abruzzese and Molisan gastronomy

and marketed both fresh and dry.

142. MACCHERONI ALLA

PECORARA

Pasta corta

INGREDIENTS: Wheat flour, eggs,

and water.

HOW MADE: The flour is sifted

and kneaded long and strenuously

with eggs and water until a smooth,

firm dough forms. The dough is then

shaped into thin strings, which are

pressed closed in rings about 2

inches (5 cm) in diameter. The rings

are boiled in salted water.

ALSO KNOWN AS: No alternative

names.

HOW SERVED: As pastasciutta,

with mutton ragu, but also with

vegetable-based sauces, and always

with a final dusting of local

pecorino. A sauce of pancetta, eggs,

and cheese is also common.

WHERE FOUND: Abruzzo.

REMARKS: Sheep are omnipresent

in the gastronomy of Abruzzo, land

of pastures and of transhumance.

Flavorful sheep's milk cheeses are

always on hand for the pasta.

The sauce of pancetta, cheese, and

eggs was typical of the carbonai,

"charcoal workers," who stayed in

the mountains the Apennines of

central

Italy

for long periods

making charcoal. Eggs, cheese, and

pancetta kept well and could be

carried easily on mule back,

together with dry homemade pasta.

Today, this preparation, now called

alla carbonara, has circled the

globe.

143. MACCHERONI CON LU

CEPPE

Pasta lunga

INGREDIENTS:

Durum-wheat

flour, eggs, oil, and water. At one

time, no eggs were used.

HOW MADE: The flour is sifted,

combined with eggs, oil, and water,

and kneaded for a long time. When

the dough is firm and smooth, it is

covered and left to rest. It is then

rolled out with a rolling pin into a

sheet, not too thin, and cut into

strips about 1/8 inch (1.5 cm) wide

and about 6 inches (15 cm) long.

These strips are wound around a

smooth, thin stick to make thick

bucatini. They are boiled in plenty

of salted water.

ALSO KNOWN AS: Ciufulitti; at

Magliano dei Marsi, torcinelli.

HOW SERVED: As pastasciutta,

generally with hearty meat ragit.

WHERE FOUND: Abruzzo, a

specialty of Civitella del Tronto.

REMARKS:

The

term

ceppe

indicates the wooden stick used for

making this pasta. In its absence,

women used a number 4 sock-

knitting needle or a knitting needle

without the head. The sock needle is

still used in all regions where

similar pastas are made. But in

reality, each housewife uses, in

addition to the ferretto found in

every house, less practical pieces

of wood shaped for the purpose

called ceppe, or reeds like busa in

Sardinia and in Sicily. Even the ribs

of an old umbrella can be used, the

custom of the Arbereshe.

144. MACCHERONI DI

CIACCIO

Pasta corta

INGREDIENTS:

Wheat

flour,

chestnut flour, salt, eggs, oil, and

water.

HOW MADE: The flours are sifted

together with a pinch of salt and

kneaded long and vigorously with a

few eggs, a spoonful of oil, and

water until a firm, smooth dough

forms. The dough is left to rest, then

rolled out into a thin sheet and

rhombuses about I%a inches (3 cm)

long are cut from it. They are boiled

in plenty of salted water.

ALSO KNOWN AS: No alternative

names.

HOW SERVED: As pastasciutta,

with hearty meat raga.

WHERE FOUND: Tuscany, in

particular Upper Versilia and

around Lucca.

REMARKS: The economy of the

Upper Versilia and part of the

province

of

Lucca has

long

revolved around the chestnut. The

main

towns

involved

in

the

processing of the chestnuts used to

be Cardoso, Capezzano Monte, and

Camaiore, where, toward the end of

summer, the rimondatura took place,

the cleaning of the ground beneath

the venerable chestnut trees to

facilitate the harvest of the precious

fruits. The ruspa, or free gathering

of the

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